P06-03 | Tall double-door wooden enclosure

1. Use a flat, continuous 36″ × 24″ support and a helper for tall panels and glazed doors. Prepare accurate ripping, shallow stop-face relief and supported thin-strip milling.
2. Tools: guided saw/table saw, drill with depth stop and countersink, router or sharp chisels, clamps and straight cauls, square, tape/calipers, supported planer setup, mesh snips, eye/hearing protection and suitable dust extraction. Follow each tool's instructions.
3. Measure plywood, pine, mesh crossings and acrylic before cutting. Keep labeled panel offcuts as thickness gauges. Nominal pine is ¾ inch or 1½ inches square; pane thickness follows the purchased sheet.
4. Before dependent cuts, complete the glazing, keyless hasp and restraint trials in “Check received stock and hardware.” Trial a received hinge and selected screw in matching scrap too; verify countersink seating, the pin-removal space and stopped tip cover.
5. Record actual plywood, pane, neoprene, relaxed wire-crossing and steel thicknesses. Mark the chosen support, its full 36″ × 24″ footprint and the wood-stud restraint location before assembling this tall shell.

1. Mark P01–P05 using the two-sheet layout. Keep 1/8" between cuts for the assumed saw kerf; measure your blade's actual kerf. Keep the floor and roof 36" × 24".
2. Cut each 12″ × 2″ inlet 5 inches behind the side front. For its lower edge, shorten a 7½-inch gauge by the floor-offcut thickness and mark up from the side bottom. Make a mirrored pair.
3. On the roof, mark the first opening 4 inches from the left edge and the second 18¾ inches from that edge; both start 5 inches from the front. Each opening is 13¼″ × 12″. Support the waste and smooth the edges.

1. Use the grouped cut list in “Cut and fit schedule”. Prepare repeated widths while stock is long, then cut to length with a stop block. Keep labeled offcuts for machine setup and hinge trials.
2. Prepare glazing spacer stock 3/4" wide × 3/8" thick and retaining bead stock 1 1/4" wide × 1/4" thick using a supported carrier or suitable guarded tooling. Do not feed short thin pieces freehand.
3. Crosscut the solid-square cleats to the fit schedule. Plane the roof rib to 1¼ inches high while the stock is long, then fit its length between the front frame back and the back-panel inside face. Allow the listed spare stock.

1. Make width and height gauges: shorten a 36-inch stick by both side-panel thicknesses and a 48-inch stick by floor and roof thicknesses. Use the same gauges for mating parts; do not round separate cuts.
2. Lay FA/FB face down to the gauges. Fit FC/FD between them and FE between the rails, centred with equal opening gauges. Transfer the joints to the rear layer with staggered laps; compare diagonals and clamp flat.
3. Use the local receiver pattern. Clearance-drill the rear layer and depth-stop the front pilots. Lift, spread Titebond III on bare mating faces, refit and drive 32 #8 × 1¼-inch screws from the rear. Seat flush; follow clamp conditions and leave unstressed at least 24 hours.

Local marking and receiver pattern

1. Fit each door to its actual opening using ⅛-inch spacers on all four edges. Transfer its width and height to a jig. Use 1½-inch hinge stiles/rails and 2-inch latch stiles; mirror the doors.
2. Fit the front rails between full-height stiles. Rear full-width rails bridge those joints; rear short stiles fit between rails. Glue with Titebond III, clamp square and fit 12 #8 × 1¼-inch rear-entry screws per leaf using the local pattern.
3. After the surface-hinge layout check, plane a 3° back bevel on each latch edge only. Keep its front arris at the fitted width; remove material toward the rear. Work on the supported unglazed frame, never against acrylic.

Local marking and receiver pattern

1. Sort solid CLB/CLT/CRB/CRT side cleats, CLV/CRV rear corner cleats, CFB/CBB floor cleats and RF/RB roof ledgers. Mark front/back and top/bottom; no cleat glue-up is needed.
2. Glue the two 2½-inch-wide CC layers into a 1½-inch-deep column. Fit its length between the front floor cleat and roof ledger after checking the finished roof/cloth stack. Do not force a long column under the roof.
3. Dry-place supports before drilling. Leave the side cleats clear of rear corner cleats. On RF only, relieve the bottom ¼ inch of its front face by 1/32 inch for door clearance; keep the upper screw receiver and top bearing face intact.

1. With protective film retained, cut each pane from its actual leaf: visible opening width and height plus ¾ inch. This gives ⅜-inch overlap all around. Use acrylic tooling and supported edges; remove burrs without flame polishing.
2. Make the pocket ¼ inch larger than the pane in both directions, leaving ⅛ inch per edge. Mill Q spacers from ⅜-inch blanks so the coated pocket equals the actual pane plus two 1/16-inch solid-neoprene face cushions. Include cured film in the fit; retaining beads overlap by ⅜ inch.
3. Cut the 16 face strips and eight setting-pad layers from one Rubber-Cal 2837423 sheet. Use 1/4-inch-wide face strips, two stacked pads at each lower support, no adhesive on acrylic, and light contact rather than forced compression. Leave beads removable and the pane free to move; do not drill acrylic.

Local marking and receiver pattern

1. Cut two 14" × 4" side mesh blanks. Deburr and fold/trim protruding wire ends so every edge remains under a capture batten; wear gloves when handling cut cloth.
2. Use eight stations per side: #10-24 stainless pan screws, 1-inch washers, nylon-insert locknuts and closed caps. Buy 2½-inch screws; trim from the measured stack after checking one complete fastening.
3. Keep heads/washers inside; locknuts and caps outside. Before drilling, check each shank clears an actual mesh opening and each washer bears fully on its batten. Record any required station correction. Fully engage nylon and cap threads without bottoming the cap or crushing wood/cloth; deburr away from the shell.

Local marking and receiver pattern

1. Support the back and sides upright with temporary braces and a helper. Fit rear corner cleats inside the two back corners; set their bottoms at the panel bottoms.
2. Install side floor/top cleats with their lower/upper faces at the side-panel edges. Fit front/rear receivers at the elevations in the support drawing.
3. Drive #8 × 1¾-inch screws through panel clearance holes into stopped pine pilots. Use the local receiver schedule and a 48-inch height story stick. Keep perpendicular side/back rows offset; transfer the clamped receivers before drilling.

Local marking and receiver pattern

1. Lay the floor on its full, level support. Bring the braced wall assembly onto it with help; align the outside edges flush.
2. Fit the front and back floor cleats between the side supports. Drive the 14 floor screws from below only while the assembly is safely supported for access; do not work beneath an unstable tipped shell.
3. Use the same stopped pilot/clearance method as the panel joints. Keep finished heads flush to avoid rocking on the permanent support.

Local marking and receiver pattern

1. Fit the laminated front between the sides, bottom on the floor and face flush with the side fronts. Clamp and transfer the front receiver screw rows from the solid cleats/ledger.
2. Stand CC on the front floor cleat and beneath RF, with full bearing at both ends. Fit its five #8 × 2½-inch front-entry screws using the local height pattern.
3. Fit four bottom stops behind the aperture corners. Relieve only the upper ¼ inch of each front face by 1/32 inch; the lower mounting face stays in contact with the fixed frame. Fit one #8 × 1¼-inch screw per stop, below the relief.

Local marking and receiver pattern

1. Centre RC across RF and RB. Both rib ends bear on the full 1½-inch depth of the ledgers; the shallow front stop relief is below this bearing face.
2. Fasten the rib downward with two #8 × 2½-inch screws: mark 1/2 inch from each rib end and 5/16 inch to the right of its centreline. Use the local detail; both screws remain outside the mesh blank. Drill before the roof is fitted.
3. Set the rib top one relaxed mesh-crossing thickness below the coated roof underside. Use the bearing detail to transfer ledger and column heights from actual finished surfaces. At the ends, where there is no mesh above RC, that same height difference is an intentional air gap.

Local marking and receiver pattern

1. Lay the roof inside face up, with left/front labels visible. Position the 30″ × 14″ mesh 3″ from the left and 4″ from the front. Deburr all cut wires; the six capture battens must cover every cut edge.
2. Cut LB1 and LB2, each 14″ × 1″ × ⅛″, from one Hillman 11653 36″ bar. File all edges. Drill two ¼″ bores on each strip’s width centreline, ½″ from each end: 13″ between centres. Use a clamped backing block and deburr both bore faces.
3. Keep the strip width centrelines at 7.973″ and 11.767″ from the roof LEFT; the ends run from 4″ to 18″ from the FRONT. This preserves the existing four registered screen-bolt positions. Use the exact decimal marks or transfer a single full-size jig; do not independently round the centres.
4. Transfer each steel end’s actual footprint to RB1L and RB2L. Cut a seat across the 1″ batten width, nominally 1″ wide and ⅛″ deep, so steel lies directly below the wire. Keep at least ⅝″ wood beneath each end. Trial roof offcut, mesh, steel and batten together: both steel ends must seat fully and neither strip may rock.
5. Clamp the fitted stack. At BR02, BR03, BR10 and BR11, transfer the steel bores through the wood, using the actual mesh cells without a trapped wire or clipped loose end. Front bolt row is 4½″ from FRONT; rear row is 17½″. Each row uses the two exact left-edge centres above. Clear wood for the #10 shank, keep the selected mesh registration and retain full washer bearing.
6. Fit all 22 roof bolt stacks with heads and first washers under the battens, through wood/steel where present, mesh and roof, then the outer washers, nylon-insert locknuts and closed caps above. Measure actual wood, wire, washers, nut height and usable cap depth before trimming the purchased 2½″ screws. Fully engage nylon and cap threads without bottoming caps or crushing wood; deburr off the shell.
7. Fit the roof to the supported shell, with the central cloth captured against RC. Install six side-cleat and four front-head #8 × 1¾″ screws at the local pattern. RC has its own end screws; never add a wood screw through the cloth.

Local marking and receiver pattern

1. Use six McMaster1798A21 surface hinges, three per leaf, with 36 #8 × 1¼-inch flat-head screws. Both leaf backs sit flat on the front faces; do not mortise or pack them. Block the unglazed door flush at ⅛-inch bare perimeter gaps.
2. Place hinge centres 4 inches from the door bottom and top, with the third halfway between. Align all pin axes over the hinge-side gap with one straightedge. Transfer the six actual holes per hinge. Use stopped pilots matched to the screw root; hand-check head seating in a hinge first.
3. Support the leaf and swing slowly to 90°. Check the 3° latch bevel, relieved stops, heads and glazing receivers. Keep 4 inches clear above each pin and at least 15 inches working room in front. Withdraw bottom, middle, then top pin with the helper carrying the leaf; refit top first.

Local marking and receiver pattern

1. Use one National Hardware N305-979 swivel-staple hasp per leaf. Fit the narrow hinged base to the moving latch stile and its square swivel plate to the fixed FE post. Both front faces remain flush; the two fixed plates are staggered vertically.
2. Align the left swivel centre 17 19/32″ from the shell LEFT and 23″ above the floor underside. Align the right centre 18 13/32″ from LEFT and 29″ above the same datum. Transfer these marks with the width/height story sticks. Check full plate backing and flap alignment before marking actual holes.
3. Use the received plate holes as the drilling template. Fit seven Everbilt #10 × ⅝″ screws per assembly: three at the hinged base and four at the square plate. Keep all pilots within solid front-layer wood and clear of the pane pocket; use the proven depth-stop setting from the scrap trial.
4. Turn the swivel so it aligns with the flap slot, lift the flap outward, then open that door. Close the door, fold the flap over the swivel and turn the swivel across the slot to retain it. Open each leaf while the other stays latched. Repeat after finish cure; do not force or bend the purchased hardware.

Local marking and receiver pattern

1. Fit RT, the exposed rear receiver bar, over solid RB with both centre heights aligned. RT is ¾ inch thick and 2½ inches high; fit its length to the width gauge less 3 inches. It projects ¾ inch behind the shell.
2. Clamp the bar and drill clearance holes through RT and P05, with stopped pilots into RB. Fit four #8 × 2½-inch screws using the adjacent pattern. The nominal stack leaves about 1 inch of screw in solid RB; no screw relies on plywood alone.
3. Fit two Hillman9976524 restraints to the exposed bar with the kit’s ⅝-inch furniture screws. Transfer each actual bracket, keeping its full footprint on wood and clear of bar screws. Route cables entirely outside. At the final location, follow kit instructions for sound wood studs, wall screws, cable slack and pin retention.

Local marking and receiver pattern

1. Inspect all joints and fasteners; check squareness and support contact. Operate each supported door independently, then remove/refit its pins and test its keyless latch.
2. Check pane expansion spaces, mesh edge capture and all inside surfaces by sight and touch. Resolve binding, protruding hardware, loose mesh or cracked timber before finishing.
3. Mark mating components and photograph the dry assembly. Record actual hinge measurements and any source changes; this guide does not claim a physical trial has occurred.

1. Remove and label panes, hinges, hasps, mesh and steel strips and other removable hardware. Bag hardware by location; retain laminated frame/door/column assemblies intact.
2. Use helpers and temporary supports for the roof, doors and panels. Keep every component ID visible on a protected non-exposed reference area.
3. Complete drilling and edge smoothing before coating. Keep dust off mating/contact surfaces and protect threads and hinge seats from uncontrolled film buildup.

1. Use Varathane Triple Thick clear satin 284473, Lowe's 9181732 / seller 284473-7482. Keep Titebond III glue faces bare; let joints cure under its own directions. Sand clean, dry wood 120–220 grit, vacuum and wipe lint-free. Stir, do not shake; use a synthetic-bristle brush with the grain and ventilation.
2. Brush one coat of Varathane Triple Thick clear satin 284473 with a synthetic brush; stir, do not shake. Apply at 60–90°F and below 85% RH with ventilation. Two two-can packs provide four quarts; calculated need is three cans including the separate repair/detail allowance.
3. Keep the shell unoccupied through FULL CURE: 7 days at 70°F / 50% RH with ventilation, starting from the final applied or repaired coat; adverse conditions require longer under manufacturer directions. Record time and conditions. Two-hour recoat, 48-hour light use and loss of odor are not full cure. Clean tools with soap and water.

1. After full cure, inspect faces, edges, cutouts and holes. Verify actual coated clearances at the relieved stops, door reveals, pane pockets and roof bearings; nominal film is only an allowance, not a fit guarantee.
2. Reassemble the supported shell in the dry-fit sequence using the existing holes. Recheck square and bearing contact; do not bury heads or force a coated joint closed.
3. Refit captured mesh and roof. Refit the external receiver/restraints at the final support and wall. Keep vents clear; confirm every cut bolt tail is protected.

1. Refit the selected unbonded neoprene face cushions and lower setting pads, then each pane. Fit the removable beads with the 24 designated screws; retain the perimeter movement allowance and light contact without bowing.
2. With a helper supporting each leaf, refit its surface hinges/pins, independent keyless hasp. Keep at least 1/16 inch finished perimeter clearance and check full 90° outward movement; do not force a bind.
3. Inspect screw seating, sound timber and the retained glazing. Repeat supported pin removal/refitting with the actual glazed leaf; hinge reference dimensions do not establish a tested door load rating.

1. Limit dry substrate to 4 inches above the inside floor. This leaves 1½ inches below the sill top. Inlet clearance is 3½ inches less the measured floor thickness—about 2¾ inches with the specified sheet. Keep piles and furnishings away from both inlet faces.
2. Inspect and clean both lower screens and the roof outlets regularly; recheck edge capture and fastener security. Low-to-high airflow is a design strategy, not a measured ventilation rate.
3. For the optional screen-top example, use the Fluker 27004 Mini Sun Dome only in its manufacturer-permitted external screen-top position. Centre its rigid flat rim 9.87″ from LEFT and 11″ from FRONT, over both steel strips through the mesh. The proposed fit envelope is at most 6″ overall diameter, a 5½–6″ rim and at most 2 lb including bulb. Weigh and measure the received assembly; 2 lb is a design assumption, not a tested capacity.
4. Confirm four seated rim contacts over the two strips, stable support and full bearing at the batten ends. No fixture goes on unsupported cloth or the central rib. The nominal 2.87″ wood margin is geometric space, not a universal thermal clearance. Keep the right half free of heat fixtures and provide species-appropriate shade.
5. Select the bulb, thermostat, guard where required, cables and placement using the actual fixture/bulb instructions and the animal’s reviewed needs. The fixture’s 100 W electrical maximum is not an operating recommendation. Keep heat off wood, finish and cables; measure the completed warm and cool conditions before animals. If a fixture cannot meet its instructions here, use a suitably guarded internal installation only when its manufacturer permits that installation and its attachments and clearances are resolved.
6. At the final location, check full-footprint support, both external restraints, door service room, dry substrate and all sharp-edge covers. Repeat keyless opening, closing and supported pin removal. Record measurements and recheck hardware, coating and temperature controls during use.