Build the twin-door wooden enclosure

1. Plan support and maintenance space

Parts: Complete empty enclosure

Tools / setup: Tape, square, pencil, clamps and the tools named in the operation

Before you begin: This is an unbuilt indoor shell. Appearance is not animal, load, thermal or water-holding approval.

1. Provide a continuous, flat, level support beneath the whole finished base. The bare body is 36 in (914.4 mm) wide × 18 in (457.2 mm) deep × 18 in (457.2 mm) high. At the maximum veneer stack its wooden envelope is 36.092 in (916.74 mm) × 18.092 in (459.54 mm) × 18.092 in (459.54 mm); hinges and latches extend farther.
2. Measure the transport route and working position before building. Allow at least 16 in (406.4 mm) in front for supported door removal and 4 in (101.6 mm) above the upper hinge pin. Leave clear access above the entire roof and to both side bolt sets.
3. Record the weight of the final enclosure, substrate, furnishings and equipment. Have the support and floor checked for that actual load; no stand, stacking arrangement or load rating is provided.

Check before continuing: The empty object can be moved and serviced with helpers; the whole base has support.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

2. Resolve the seven receiving holds

Parts: H01–H07; current materials list

Tools / setup: Tape, square, pencil, clamps and the tools named in the operation

Before you begin: Do not treat product listings or these drawings as approval of the complete assembly.

1. Read the receiving record before buying dependent materials. H01 needs supplier or qualified acceptance of the proposed hinge spacers. H02 needs the actual latch footprint and screw trial. H05 needs actual countersunk-head, washer, locknut and closed-cover measurements and a complete offcut trial.
2. Select ONE maple, white-oak or walnut veneer system. Ask the supplier to confirm the backing, pressure-sensitive adhesive (PSA), substrate/sealer compatibility, one-sided panel balance and intended indoor conditions.
3. Record the supplier’s acclimation, application pressure and dwell. The complete cured veneer stack must be no more than 0.046 in (1.17 mm). A balancing layer or different hardware requires coordinated dimensional review.

Check before continuing: Written answers and trial requirements are recorded; unresolved substitutions are not used.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

3. Receive and measure the actual stock

Parts: PLY, PINE, ACR, HINGE, HASP, fasteners, mesh, metal and veneer

Tools / setup: Tape, square, pencil, clamps and the tools named in the operation

Before you begin: Digital dimensions describe the reference stock; they do not replace received measurements.

1. Compare exact model numbers with the current BOM, meaning bill of materials. Keep the unknown screws supplied with hinges and hasps separate; use the scheduled screws.
2. Measure plywood at several edges with a caliper: reference 45/64 in (17.86 mm), receiving range 11/16 in (17.46 mm) through 23/32 in (18.26 mm). Pine is finished to 3/4 in (19.05 mm). Acrylic reference thickness is 0.22 in (5.59 mm). Reject warped, split or voided stock at a joint.
3. Save actual plywood and pine offcuts as thickness gauges. Field-fit dependent members between their receiving parts. If the received thickness changes, record the revised dimensions and repeat related gap and hardware checks.

Check before continuing: Thickness, straightness, model identity and quantities are recorded.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

4. Trial clearance holes, pilots and head seats

Parts: Trial pine/plywood; S8, S8H, S6 and S10

Tools / setup: Drill, actual bits and screws, countersink, depth stop, caliper, clamps and backing board

Before you begin: Clamp small parts; do not hold them by hand under a drill.

1. Clamp a matching offcut stack on a backing board. A clearance hole lets the screw pass through the first member; a smaller pilot guides its threads in the receiver. Never use a plywood edge as the threaded receiver.
2. Start the #8 pine trial with 11/64 in (4.37 mm) clearance and a 7/64 in (2.78 mm) pilot; match the actual screw root. Match the flat-head countersink angle and stop with the head flush, not crushed into wood.
3. Mark the intended tip location, include the drill-point length in the depth stop, and check both sides after fastening. Repeat for each screw type and hardware stack. Use the exact station and receiver table for final work.

Check before continuing: The joint closes without splitting, proud tips, stripped threads or a deeply buried head.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

5. Cut the plywood panels with actual thickness gauges

Parts: P01 floor; P04 roof; P03L/P03R sides; P02 back

Tools / setup: Supported sheet saw setup, straight guide, square, clamps and actual offcut gauges

Before you begin: Support both sides of each cut. No store cutting service is assumed.

1. Support the whole sheet and waste on a sacrificial cutting surface. Follow PLY-1 with its trim and saw kerf. Cut P01 and P04 to 36 in (914.4 mm) × 18 in (457.2 mm) and label the outside/front/left edges.
2. For each side, subtract two actual plywood thicknesses from the 18 in (457.2 mm) exterior height. Reference side size is 18 in (457.2 mm) deep × 16 19/32 in (421.48 mm) high. Use offcut gauges to transfer this fit rather than stacking tape errors.
3. Dry-clamp the sides on the floor. Fit P02 between them: reference 34 19/32 in (878.68 mm) wide × 16 19/32 in (421.48 mm) high. Its back face is flush with the side rear edges.

Check before continuing: Matching panels agree and the dry-clamped shell reaches the intended bare dimensions.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

6. Prepare and label the solid wood members

Parts: Five production PINE boards plus one dedicated trial board

Tools / setup: Supported saw/planer setups, carrier, push blocks, guards, square and caliper

Before you begin: Use the machine maker’s minimum feed lengths and workholding rules.

1. Use the five numbered pine layouts and the individual finished cut table. Preserve full 3 1/2 in (88.9 mm) stock width for FC and GC; there is no width-trimming allowance for those members.
2. Plane the glazing-cap stock to 1/4 in (6.35 mm) while it is safely wide and supported on an appropriate carrier. Then rip and crosscut the narrow parts using guards, a carrier and push blocks. Never feed a short loose strip through a planer.
3. Keep dependent rails slightly long until their receiving opening is dry-fitted. Label every ID, outward face, end and grain direction; retain the dedicated trial board for glue, drilling, finish and veneer samples.

Check before continuing: Every part is labeled and matches the cut schedule; wide members retain their specified width.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

7. Cut the two low side openings

Parts: P03L and P03R side panels

Tools / setup: Square, marking gauge, drill, jigsaw/router, clamped guide, chisel and backing board

Before you begin: The finished veneer raises the inlet edge slightly; use the bare datum for cutting.

1. From the side FRONT edge, mark an opening 6 in (152.4 mm) along the depth and 2 in (50.8 mm) high, beginning 6 in (152.4 mm) behind the front. Its bottom is 3 1/2 in (88.9 mm) above the bare inside floor, which is also 3 1/2 in (88.9 mm) above the side bottom edge.
2. Clamp the panel on a supporting sacrificial board. Drill a starter hole inside the waste, use a supported jigsaw or guided router to the lines, and square the corners without cutting beyond them.
3. Use the first checked opening as a marking template for the opposite panel. Keep the lower support and capture locations separate; do not move an opening to hide an incorrect cleat position.

Check before continuing: Both bare openings are 6 in (152.4 mm) × 2 in (50.8 mm) at matching stations.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

8. Cut the roof openings

Parts: P04 removable roof

Tools / setup: Tape, square, drill, supported jigsaw/router and chisel

1. Mark two 13 in (330.2 mm) wide × 10 in (254 mm) deep openings. Their left edges are 3 in (76.2 mm) and 20 in (508 mm) from the roof LEFT edge; both front edges are 4 in (101.6 mm) from the roof FRONT.
2. Clamp and fully support P04 and both waste pieces. Cut within the waste and finish to the lines; square routed corners with a chisel. Preserve the central web and perimeter.
3. Label the LEFT opening for the two proposed steel lamp supports. Do not enlarge either opening or place equipment over the unsupported right screen.

Check before continuing: Both rectangles and their surrounding solid lands match the roof drawing.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

9. Fasten the two lower side cleats

Parts: P01, CLB, CRB; eight S8 screws

Tools / setup: Tape, square, pencil, clamps and the tools named in the operation

1. Lay P01 flat. Clamp CLB and CRB with 3/4 in (19.05 mm) across the enclosure and 1 1/2 in (38.1 mm) vertical. Their front ends are 1 1/2 in (38.1 mm) behind the floor FRONT; use actual side-panel offcuts to set the outside faces inward.
2. Transfer each cleat centerline through the floor. Along each row mark 2 1/2 in (63.5 mm), 7 in (177.8 mm), 11 1/2 in (292.1 mm) and 15 3/4 in (400.05 mm) from the floor FRONT.
3. With a helper, support and turn the clamped assembly to reach the underside. Clearance-drill the floor, pilot the pine with a stop, and fit four S8 screws per cleat. Leave these joints unglued for finishing.

Check before continuing: Both cleats bear continuously and no screw point is exposed.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

10. Brace the sides and set roof ledgers

Parts: P03L/P03R, CLT/CRT; sixteen S8 screws

Tools / setup: Tape, square, pencil, clamps and the tools named in the operation

Before you begin: The open U-shaped shell can rack sideways.

1. Stand each side directly on P01, outside face flush with the floor edge. Clamp and temporarily brace it square before releasing your hands.
2. Transfer the lower-cleat centerline to the side. Mark 2 3/4 in (69.85 mm), 7 1/4 in (184.15 mm), 11 3/4 in (298.45 mm) and 16 in (406.4 mm) from the side FRONT. Drill the clearance/pilot pair and fasten.
3. Set CLT and CRT using a roof-thickness offcut below the side top. Transfer each ledger centerline and mark 2 1/2 in (63.5 mm), 7 in (177.8 mm), 11 1/2 in (292.1 mm) and 15 3/4 in (400.05 mm) from FRONT; drill and fasten. Keep braces until the back and front frame are secure.

Check before continuing: Sides are square, ledger tops agree and openings are unobstructed.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

11. Fit the rear corner and bearing cleats

Parts: P02, CLV/CRV, CBACKB/CBACKT; S8 screws

Tools / setup: Tape, square, pencil, clamps and the tools named in the operation

1. Fit CLV and CRV in the rear corners between floor and roof. Each occupies the final 3/4 in (19.05 mm) of interior depth and touches the side and back.
2. Clamp P02 between the sides, standing on P01. Fit CBACKB and CBACKT between the corner cleats; their 1 1/2 in (38.1 mm) faces provide bottom and top bearing.
3. Check both diagonals and all bearing faces before drilling. Keep full support under the floor and use clamps to hold squareness.

Check before continuing: Back and side rear edges are flush and every bearing face touches without force.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

12. Fasten the staggered back connections

Parts: Rear cleats, P02, sides and floor; 34 S8 screws

Tools / setup: Measuring strip/dividers, square, drill, depth stops, clamps and driver

Before you begin: Use the exact station appendix if a local marking reference is unclear.

1. On each corner cleat, transfer its centerline to the back. Mark 2 1/2 in (63.5 mm) from both cleat ends and divide the intervening distance into three equal spaces: four back screws per corner.
2. For the side-to-corner rows, mark 1 1/2 in (38.1 mm) from each cleat end and divide into three equal spaces. These four screws per side are staggered from the back screws; use one marked measuring strip.
3. Transfer the horizontal bearing-cleat centerlines to the back. Project marks 4 in (101.6 mm) inward from each outside side face and divide into five equal spaces. Fit six screws per back row and six floor-to-rear-cleat screws at the same width marks. Recheck square after each row.

Check before continuing: All 34 connections use their own row and no screw paths cross.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

13. Dry-lay the two front-frame layers on the bench

Parts: FL/FR/FB/FT/FC front; GC/GLB/GLT/GLV/GRB/GRT/GRV rear

Tools / setup: Tape, square, pencil, clamps and the tools named in the operation

Before you begin: Install all lamination screws on the bench before fitting the frame into the shell; later cleats and captures obstruct the driver.

1. Lay the front layer flat: full-height FL/FR outer stiles, FB/FT rails between them and FC between the rails.
2. Lay the rear layer with its seams reversed: full-height GC center, split horizontal rails and outer GLV/GRV stiles between the rails. Each butt seam must be overlapped by the other layer.
3. Clamp the complete frame flat on cauls, which are straight boards spreading clamp pressure. Check equal diagonals and equal openings. Mark the 30 seam screws while the rear remains accessible on the bench.

Check before continuing: Both layers bridge all butt joints and lie flat.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

14. Glue and screw the front-frame lamination

Parts: Front-frame layers; Titebond III; 30 S8 screws

Tools / setup: Tape, square, pencil, clamps and the tools named in the operation

Before you begin: Titebond III is not an approval for structural loads or immersion.

1. Apply glue only to clean bare mating wood, above 47°F (8.3°C). At 70°F (21°C) and 50% relative humidity, the maker gives 8–10 minutes open time and 20–25 minutes total assembly time. Organize clamps before spreading glue.
2. From the REAR, mark the centerline of each outer stile and the center post. Use six screws per row: 7/8 in (22.23 mm) from the frame ends and four absolute heights 5 in (127 mm), 7 3/4 in (196.85 mm), 10 1/4 in (260.35 mm) and 14 in (355.6 mm) above the floor underside, transferred during dry fit.
3. For each horizontal seam row, mark 3/4 in (19.05 mm) from its nearest frame edge and width stations 4 1/2 in (114.3 mm), 8 1/2 in (215.9 mm) and 12 1/2 in (317.5 mm) inward from each outside side face. Clearance-drill the first layer, pilot the receiver and fit the twelve horizontal screws. Keep all 30 heads flush.

Check before continuing: The frame remains flat and square with all seams overlapped.

Required wait: Do not stress or machine the glue-up for at least 24 hours; colder/damper conditions and current manufacturer instructions govern.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

15. Fit the cured front frame into the shell

Parts: Completed front frame; eight side and seven floor S8 screws

Tools / setup: Tape, square, pencil, clamps and the tools named in the operation

1. After the glue hold, fit the frame between the sides, standing on P01 with its front face flush with the side fronts. Confirm the 3 1/2 in (88.9 mm) center post and 2 1/2 in (63.5 mm) bare sill above the floor.
2. For each side row, transfer the center of the front pine layer, 3/8 in (9.53 mm) behind FRONT. Mark 1 in (25.4 mm), 5 in (127 mm) and 10 in (254 mm) above the side bottom plus 1 in (25.4 mm) below the side top; drill and fit four screws.
3. Through P01, use the same 3/8 in (9.53 mm)-behind-FRONT line. Mark both outer-stile centerlines plus 6 in (152.4 mm), 12 in (304.8 mm), 18 in (457.2 mm), 24 in (609.6 mm) and 30 in (762 mm) from outside LEFT. Fit seven screws with the assembly fully supported.

Check before continuing: The case is square and both front openings agree.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

16. Cut and deburr the four screen blanks

Parts: ML/MR side screens; MRL/MRR roof screens

Tools / setup: Mesh snips, files, gloves for handling, eye protection, caliper and square

Before you begin: Half-inch mesh has no universal animal-containment approval.

1. On a protected bench cut two 8 in (203.2 mm) × 4 in (101.6 mm) side blanks and two 15 in (381 mm) × 12 in (304.8 mm) roof blanks. Wear eye protection and protect hands from cut wire; remove projecting burrs and flatten the perimeter.
2. The reference wire is round, 0.041 in (1.04 mm) diameter with 1/2 in (12.7 mm) CLEAR aperture, giving 0.541 in (13.74 mm) center pitch. Measure the actual welded crossing thickness and aperture; do not assume the old half-inch center grid.
3. Center each blank to overlap its opening by 1 in (25.4 mm) on every side. Keep all cut wire ends concealed beneath its capture frame.

Check before continuing: Four blanks fit, lie flat and have no reachable sharp ends.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

17. Machine the side-screen capture pockets

Parts: VLB/VLT/VLF/VLR and matching VR strips

Tools / setup: Router, clamped template/carrier, chisel, depth gauge, coated offcuts and mesh sample

1. Dry-clamp each four-piece capture as a 9 in (228.6 mm) × 5 in (127 mm) frame on a sacrificial carrier. Its 3/4 in (19.05 mm) thickness remains supported; never route narrow loose pieces freehand.
2. On the wall-facing side, use a clamped template to route the centered mesh footprint plus 0.006 in (0.15 mm) relief at every perimeter edge, 1/8 in (3.18 mm) deep. Square the corners. This leaves a continuous 0.494 in (12.55 mm) outer bearing land.
3. Test actual wire crossings plus cured coating against a side-panel offcut. The outer land must sit flat while the pocket covers all cut wire ends. If the stack does not fit, resolve H05 before changing the pocket.

Check before continuing: The complete outer land bears flat; mesh does not jack the capture off the wall.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

18. Transfer side bolts through actual open wire cells

Parts: ML/MR, eight cap strips; sixteen B10 sets

Tools / setup: Clamps, backing board, actual mesh, drill, 7/32 in (5.56 mm) bit and transfer jig

Before you begin: Do not cut a mesh wire to make a hole fit. The receiving trial must preserve full wood bearing and tool access.

1. Clamp the mesh and capture against the side with the outer land fully seated. Use the reference dot pattern as a starting jig, then align the actual open cells before drilling.
2. For each side, the reference Y stations from FRONT are 5 1/4 in (133.35 mm), 9.037 in (229.54 mm) and 12.824 in (325.73 mm). Z stations from FLOOR UNDERSIDE are 3 29/64 in (87.71 mm) and 6.699125 in (170.16 mm) for the three-bolt rows, plus two end bolts at Z 5.076125 in (128.93 mm). Do not substitute the superseded half-inch grid.
3. Transfer and drill eight 7/32 in (5.56 mm) through-holes per side through open cells, never wire or a weld. A shifted received grid must still preserve the solid capture land, washer support and clearance from the cleats.

Check before continuing: All sixteen bolts pass through open cells with supported washers and concealed wire ends.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

19. Countersink only the outside plywood faces

Parts: P03L/P03R and later P04; B10 actual flat-head sample

Tools / setup: 82° countersink, stopped drill, actual B10 sample, 1/8 in (3.18 mm) hex key, caliper, clamps and backing

Before you begin: H05 offcut fit and H07 qualified bearing review remain required. A digital model cannot establish connection strength.

1. After transferring the 7/32 in (5.56 mm) through-holes, separate the stack. Clamp the plywood over sacrificial backing. Use an 82° countersink on the OUTSIDE face only; the cone supports the flat screw head.
2. Practice in matching offcuts first. Advance in small cuts, stop the drill and test the actual screw each time. Its top must be flush with bare wood. Published head diameter is 0.359 in (9.12 mm) – 0.411 in (10.44 mm); the maximum reference cone is about 0.127 in (3.23 mm) deep, leaving about 0.576 in (14.63 mm) of reference plywood below it.
3. Reject splitting, crushed fibers, voids, an oversized seat or a head below the face. Do not use a 90° countersink. Mark 0.43 in (10.92 mm) circular access in the later veneer so a 1/8 in (3.18 mm) hex key can reach each head; veneer must not carry clamping pressure.

Check before continuing: All outside heads seat flat and flush; the original through-hole and interior capture stay aligned.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

20. Fit and shorten screen bolts off the enclosure

Parts: B10 flat-head screws; W10 interior washers; N10 locknuts; CAP10 covers

Tools / setup: 1/8 in (3.18 mm) hex key, two slim 3/8 in (9.53 mm) wrenches, socket, caliper, vise, hacksaw and file

Before you begin: Stainless threads can seize. Work slowly by hand; stop for binding and follow supplier galling guidance. Any lubricant needs separate contact/finish approval. Never cut metal beside mesh or glazing.

1. Insert each flat head from outside. Inside, place ONE washer against the capture and add the nylon locknut. Hold the head with a 1/8 in (3.18 mm) hex key and seat the nut slowly with a 3/8 in (9.53 mm) tool. Stop when lands touch; do not crush wood. A 5/8 in (15.88 mm)-outside-diameter-or-smaller socket and two slim wrenches must fit the actual trial.
2. Start with purchased 2 in (50.8 mm) screws, measured from the top of the head. Reference fitted length is 1 7/8 in (47.63 mm). Measure the actual plywood/capture grip, washer and nut; leave 7/64 in (2.78 mm) – 9/64 in (3.57 mm) beyond the nut. Remove the screw, clamp in a vise, cut and file with no more than 1/64 in (0.4 mm) chamfer. Keep at least two complete cap threads after the chamfer.
3. Refit the screw, washer and locknut. Thread on the closed cover by hand. Its 3/16 in (4.76 mm) blind depth must not bottom on the tip; leave at least 3/64 in (1.19 mm) spare depth. Hold the locknut stationary with one wrench while snugging the cover with another. The locknut retains the joint; the cap only covers the tail.

Check before continuing: Every head is flush outside; every interior tail is covered, positively engaged and accessible without crushing wood.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

21. Lay out the revised door members

Parts: DLA–DLH and DRA–DRH; reference bare doors

Tools / setup: Tape, square, pencil, clamps and the tools named in the operation

1. Fit each door to its own opening. Leave 3/16 in (4.76 mm) bare gaps at the hinge, top and bottom, and 5/32 in (3.97 mm) at the latch. These allow veneer on BOTH facing surfaces.
2. Each reference bare door is 13 45/64 in (348.06 mm) wide × 12 7/32 in (310.36 mm) high. The hinge stile and horizontal rails are 1 3/16 in (30.16 mm) wide; the latch stile is 1 23/32 in (43.66 mm). Mirror the right-hand layout.
3. Front layers have full-height stiles; rear layers have full-width rails. Keep the bare viewing opening 10 51/64 in (274.24 mm) × 9 27/32 in (250.03 mm) and its original rabbet datum. Use the labeled cut table, not the old 1/8 in (3.18 mm)-gap door dimensions.

Check before continuing: Both door frames fit with the revised bare gauges and unchanged viewing openings.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

22. Glue and screw both door laminations

Parts: Door layers; twelve S8 screws; Titebond III

Tools / setup: Tape, square, pencil, clamps and the tools named in the operation

1. Dry-clamp each door flat and compare diagonals. Glue bare mating faces under the same temperature and assembly-time conditions as the front frame.
2. At the retained absolute screw stations, the corner holes are 7/16 in (11.11 mm) from the newly trimmed top/bottom and hinge edges, and 15/32 in (11.91 mm) from the newly trimmed latch edge. Rail-center holes keep the original viewing-opening centerline.
3. Use the exact door drawing for all six holes per leaf. Clearance-drill the front layer, pilot the rear, and fit the twelve S8 screws without twisting the glue-up.

Check before continuing: Both laminations are flat and square with no exposed tips.

Required wait: At least 24 hours without stressing or machining new glue joints; follow the glue maker’s conditions.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

23. Route the rear glazing rabbets

Parts: Cured door frames; trial offcut

Tools / setup: Guided router, carrier, chisel, depth gauge and trial offcut

1. A rabbet is a shallow edge pocket. On a laminated offcut, set the router to remove 3/8 in (9.53 mm) outward from the bare viewing opening and 1/4 in (6.35 mm) into the rear face.
2. Support and clamp the full door on a carrier. Guide the router around the REAR opening in controlled passes, then square the corners with a sharp chisel.
3. Check depth against the actual acrylic plus coating trial. Veneer on the viewing reveal stops before the rabbet floor at Y 1 1/4 in (31.75 mm); no veneer is placed inside the glazing pocket.

Check before continuing: The pocket is continuous and square without overcutting the thin surrounding wood.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

24. Plane the five-degree latch back bevel

Parts: Both unglazed, cured door frames

Tools / setup: Padded vise, block plane, protractor, sliding bevel and sacrificial trial frame

1. Set a sliding bevel to 85° from the front face, which is 5° from square. Trial on a laminated scrap first. Mark the full-width front arris, meaning the sharp meeting edge of the two faces.
2. Clamp the whole door edge-up in a padded vise. Plane thin shavings from both ends toward the middle to avoid breaking out the rail ends. Remove only the rear latch corner; preserve the new front width.
3. Check the angle along the whole edge, mirror it on the other door, and refit the bare gap gauges. Do not trim the latch edge farther: the hasp plate has very little spare supporting wood.

Check before continuing: Each rear corner clears while its front arris and latch-plate support remain intact.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

25. Make the eight proposed hinge spacers

Parts: SP-HL0/HL1/HR0/HR1 left and right; HSP aluminium bar

Tools / setup: Vise, supported metal saw, drill, clamps, backing block, file and caliper

Before you begin: This custom stand-off mounting has no tested load rating; H01 must be resolved before use.

1. After H01 mounting acceptance, cut eight solid spacers 3 in (76.2 mm) × 1 1/16 in (26.99 mm) × 1/8 in (3.18 mm) from the allocated aluminium bar. Clamp the bar and waste for each cut; file edges smooth and keep both faces flat.
2. Measure equal thickness on every spacer; minimum permitted is 7/64 in (2.78 mm). Each supports one complete hinge-leaf bearing footprint. There is no veneer or adhesive between spacer and wood.
3. Clamp the actual leaf over its labeled spacer and transfer the three holes. Drill 11/64 in (4.37 mm) clearance through the aluminium over backing and deburr both sides. The received screw/head trial still controls fit.

Check before continuing: All eight spacers are flat, equal, fully support the leaves and match the actual holes.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

26. Measure hinge pins and choose the end setting

Parts: Four 1798A21 hinges and their labeled pins

Tools / setup: Tape, square, pencil, clamps and the tools named in the operation

Before you begin: Do not reuse the old three-inch end setting after trimming the door.

1. Check each hinge against the manufacturer drawing: 3 in (76.2 mm) high, 2 1/2 in (63.5 mm) overall width, 0.08 in (2.03 mm) leaf thickness and six #8 holes. Middle holes are nominally 0.31 in (7.87 mm) from outer long edges; end holes are 0.53 in (13.46 mm) from both adjacent edges. Accept hole-center differences no greater than 1/32 in (0.79 mm).
2. Remove each pin and measure its full length including the head. For total length no more than 3 3/16 in (80.96 mm), mark hinge centers 2 15/16 in (74.61 mm) from the new door ends. For longer pins up to 3 7/16 in (87.31 mm), use 2 13/16 in (71.44 mm) at BOTH ends. Use one setting for each pair.
3. Pin-head diameter must be no more than 3/8 in (9.53 mm). Return a nonconforming hinge; do not enlarge metal holes or invent a third setting. The drawings/model show the shorter-pin reference setting.

Check before continuing: Exact hardware, pin dimensions and selected setting are recorded.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

27. Trial the complete hinge stack on laminated offcuts

Parts: Two 1 1/2-inch laminated scraps; hinges, spacers and S8H

Tools / setup: Laminated test jig, caliper, square, straightedge, stopped drill and hand driver

Before you begin: Do not infer adequacy from screw length alone; supplier/qualified mounting acceptance remains necessary.

1. Make a flush pair of laminated-pine scraps separated by the revised bare hinge gap. Add accepted veneer samples on exposed edges, leaving the spacer bearing seats bare. Transfer the chosen hinge spacing from the door with a measuring strip.
2. Fit both leaves on equal spacers. Align barrels with a straightedge. Trial the #8 × 1 1/4 in (31.75 mm) screws: head flush in metal, no bottoming, and stopped pilot into the pine. The reference tip reaches Y 1.045 in (26.54 mm), leaving 0.205 in (5.21 mm) before the glazing-rabbet floor.
3. Use the actual screw root for the pilot, starting with 7/64 in (2.78 mm). Check at least 1/16 in (1.59 mm) wood beyond every tip. Open through 100° and rehearse complete pin extraction with a mock roof edge and the actual veneer stack.

Check before continuing: All leaves bear flat, pins move freely and the complete removal path clears.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

28. Transfer and fit both hinge pairs

Parts: HL0/HL1/HR0/HR1, eight spacers, 24 S8H screws

Tools / setup: Tape, square, pencil, clamps and the tools named in the operation

1. With helpers, support the empty shell on its back. Block each door front flush with the frame using 3/16 in (4.76 mm) bare hinge/top/bottom and 5/32 in (3.97 mm) latch gauges.
2. Place the labeled hinges and spacers at the accepted setting. Use the retained absolute pin/holes drawing and actual trial; the pin axis is not newly centered in the enlarged gap. Align both barrels with one straightedge and clamp.
3. Transfer all six holes per hinge, remove the metal and drill square stopped pilots. Keep clear of earlier fasteners. Refit by hand and support the door when opening. Never pull a twisted leaf flat with its screws.

Check before continuing: Both doors move freely through the tested range with the full veneer trial in place.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

29. Trial and fit the two independent hasps

Parts: Two N305-979 hasps; fourteen S10 screws

Tools / setup: Actual hasp, laminated trial, caliper, clamps, stopped drill and hand driver

Before you begin: The model’s formed offsets are illustrative; the actual folded hasp controls acceptance.

1. Place each fixed hasp base on FC and the swivel plate on its moving latch stile. Reference swivel centers are X 15 9/32 in (388.14 mm) / Z 7 1/2 in (190.5 mm) for LEFT and X 20 23/32 in (526.26 mm) / Z 11 in (279.4 mm) for RIGHT, measured from outside LEFT and FLOOR UNDERSIDE.
2. Trial received plates on laminated offcuts across the actual finished gap. Both plates and every hole must be fully supported. The nominal latch-side plate margin is only 0.0175 in (0.44 mm); reject overhang or a poor fold fit rather than shaving more door wood.
3. Transfer three fixed-base and four swivel-plate holes per hasp. Use seven #10 × 5/8 in (15.88 mm) screws each, actual-root-matched stopped pilots and matching metal countersinks. Keep at least 1/16 in (1.59 mm) wood beyond every tip and clear of earlier screws. Longer kit screws are not used.

Check before continuing: Each hasp closes without pulling the door sideways and its flap swings completely clear.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

30. Fit the four rear door stops

Parts: STOPL0/STOPL1/STOPR0/STOPR1; eight S8 screws

Tools / setup: Tape, square, pencil, clamps and the tools named in the operation

1. Close and support the doors flush. Set stop bottoms at 4 3/4 in (120.65 mm) and 13 in (330.2 mm) above the floor underside. Project each stop 1/2 in (12.7 mm) into its opening, with 1 in (25.4 mm) overlapping the rear center member.
2. Mark the middle of the overlapping portion and 3/8 in (9.53 mm) from each stop’s top and bottom. Clearance-drill the stop and pilot the rear center member; fit two screws per stop.
3. Hand-fit against the closing door after the actual finish is present. Stops must not bow the door, pinch acrylic or prevent the hasp from closing.

Check before continuing: All four stops meet the doors gently and every tip remains buried.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

31. Practice roof-on door removal

Parts: Supported door, labeled pins, roof temporarily in position

Tools / setup: Helper, padded adjustable support and the actual removable pins

Before you begin: Do not hammer against unsupported glazing or allow a door to hang from one loose pin.

1. Have a helper support the complete leaf continuously or use a padded adjustable block that follows its arc. Keep the other door latched. Turn the swivel to the slot direction, swing the hasp flap clear and open the supported door to 90°.
2. Keep 16 in (406.4 mm) working space ahead and 4 in (101.6 mm) above the upper pin. Withdraw the UPPER pin first; then withdraw the LOWER pin only until its tip clears its own barrel and pull it forward. Do not keep lifting the lower pin into the upper barrel.
3. Move the supported leaf forward onto padding. To refit, align the barrels without forcing them and insert the lower pin first, then the upper. Close and hand-latch before repeating the other leaf.

Check before continuing: Both complete removal/refit paths pass with the roof and trial veneer in place.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

32. Machine the two roof capture frames

Parts: RCLF/RCLB/RCLL/RCLR and matching RCR pieces

Tools / setup: Router, template, carrier, chisel and depth gauge

1. Dry-clamp each 16 in (406.4 mm) × 13 in (330.2 mm) frame on a safe carrier. On the roof-facing side, route the centered 15 in (381 mm) × 12 in (304.8 mm) mesh footprint plus 0.006 in (0.15 mm) perimeter relief, 1/8 in (3.18 mm) deep.
2. Square the pocket corners and retain the continuous 0.494 in (12.55 mm) outer bearing land. Test the actual welded stack and cured finish against a roof offcut.
3. Keep the left and right pieces labeled; only RCLF/RCLB receive the steel end seats in the next operation.

Check before continuing: Each frame sits flat over the sample mesh without exposing wire ends.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

33. Cut the steel bars and deepen their end seats

Parts: LB1/LB2; RCLF/RCLB

Tools / setup: Vise, metal saw, file, guided router/chisel, carrier and actual stack samples

1. Cut two 12 in (304.8 mm) lengths of the specified 1 in (25.4 mm) × 1/8 in (3.18 mm) steel bar in a vise. File every cut edge. Their centerlines remain X 6 3/4 in (171.45 mm) and 12 1/4 in (311.15 mm), running from Y 3 in (76.2 mm) to 15 in (381 mm) beneath the LEFT screen.
2. On RCLF/RCLB, mark 1 in (25.4 mm)-wide seats centered 5 1/4 in (133.35 mm) and 10 3/4 in (273.05 mm) from the rail LEFT end. Each extends 1 in (25.4 mm) inward from the existing mesh-relief edge, preserving the outer land.
3. Clamp the rails on a carrier and deepen only these seats with a guided router or chisel. Trial actual steel plus mesh and cured film against a roof offcut: the land must sit flat while both bars support the mesh.

Check before continuing: Four seats fit without removing the outer bearing land or adding stack height.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

34. Drill roof bolts through mesh and steel

Parts: Roof, captures, mesh, LB1/LB2; 24 bolt sets

Tools / setup: Actual mesh stack, clamps, drill, metal bits, backing board and files

Before you begin: The revised stations replace the original half-inch-pitch and quarter-inch-from-steel-end drilling rules.

1. Dry-clamp the complete stack and align the actual mesh cells. The reference left X columns are 2.467 in (62.66 mm), 6.795 in (172.59 mm), 12.205 in (310.01 mm) and 16.533 in (419.94 mm); add 17 in (431.8 mm) for the right screen. Front/back Y rows are 3.3195 in (84.32 mm) and 14.6805 in (372.88 mm). Side-row Y stations are 7.1065 in (180.51 mm) and 10.8935 in (276.69 mm).
2. Transfer the four steel holes from the two inner left columns and front/back rows. They sit 0.045 in (1.14 mm) toward enclosure center from each bar centerline and 0.3195 in (8.12 mm) from its ends. Remove the bars, clamp over backing, drill 1/4 in (6.35 mm) holes and deburr both faces.
3. Drill the twenty-four 7/32 in (5.56 mm) wood-stack holes through actual open cells. Separate the roof and countersink its OUTSIDE top face at 82° as in the side trial. Refit twelve sets per opening: flat head above, washer/locknut/closed cover below. Four pass the recessed steel without added grip thickness. Fit and shorten removed screws by the measured tail rule.

Check before continuing: All 24 bolts pass open cells; four pass steel; every land bears flat.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

35. Lower and screw down the screened roof

Parts: P04 completed roof; 21 S8 screws

Tools / setup: Tape, square, pencil, clamps and the tools named in the operation

Before you begin: Do not lift the enclosure by its removable roof.

1. With a helper, lower the roof onto the side ledgers, rear ledger and front frame. Verify underside captures clear the ledgers and every bearing face touches.
2. For each side ledger, transfer its centerline and mark Y 2 1/2 in (63.5 mm), 7 in (177.8 mm), 11 1/2 in (292.1 mm) and 15 3/4 in (400.05 mm). For the rear, reuse the six equally spaced width marks between X 4 in (101.6 mm) and 32 in (812.8 mm).
3. For the front frame, use Y 3/8 in (9.53 mm) and both outer-stile centerlines plus X 6 in (152.4 mm), 12 in (304.8 mm), 18 in (457.2 mm), 24 in (609.6 mm) and 30 in (762 mm). Drill clearance/pilot pairs and fit all 21 screws. Preserve access to every screen nut and roof screw.

Check before continuing: The roof sits without rocking, both vents are clear and no fastener tip is exposed.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

36. Trial the proposed left fixture provision

Parts: Left screen and LB1/LB2; actual optional fixture

Tools / setup: Tape, square, pencil, clamps and the tools named in the operation

Before you begin: Do not energize an unaccepted fixture installation or infer heat safety from the render.

1. Only after H07 acceptance, trial the actual fixture with its center 9 1/2 in (241.3 mm) from LEFT and 9 in (228.6 mm) from FRONT. Its rigid flat rim must be 5 1/2 in (139.7 mm) through 6 in (152.4 mm) across, overall diameter no more than 6 in (152.4 mm).
2. Verify four stable rim contacts on both steel strips through the mesh. Record assembled fixture/bulb weight; the proposed design scenario is at most 2 lb (0.91 kg), which is not a tested load rating.
3. Keep the right screen free of heat fixtures. Follow fixture and bulb clearances, choose controls separately and plan measured thermal commissioning. Acrylic is not a heat shield or a basis for ultraviolet-B delivery.

Check before continuing: Exact fixture fit, contacts, weight and qualified load/thermal review are documented.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

37. Label and dismantle after the dry trial

Parts: Dry-fitted shell, doors, captures and labeled hardware

Tools / setup: Tape, square, pencil, clamps and the tools named in the operation

Before you begin: Never sand, spray or cut metal beside fitted acrylic.

1. Photograph and label every matched part and fastener location. Remove glazing if fitted, then hardware and mesh. Support each panel while dismantling screwed joints; leave glued laminations intact.
2. Mark the bare hardware/spacer/washer bearing footprints and screw-access holes before coating and veneer. The outside finish must not shift metal seats or cover removable seams.
3. Lay panels flat on clean supports with access to all edges, rabbets and concealed wood. Mask any remaining future wood-glue faces.

Check before continuing: All coating surfaces are reachable and no hardware or pane can be contaminated.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

38. Approve a cured veneer and coating sample

Parts: Trial plywood/pine, selected PSA veneer and Varathane

Tools / setup: Tape, square, pencil, clamps and the tools named in the operation

1. Prepare representative flat, edge, reveal and hardware-seat samples with the selected sealer, veneer and topcoat. Follow the veneer supplier’s confirmed balance and compatibility directions.
2. Measure the whole cured stack, including backing, adhesive and coatings. Reference is 0.0305 in (0.77 mm); maximum is 0.046 in (1.17 mm). Verify bond, edge trimming and the finished two-sided door-gap trial.
3. Record acclimation, application pressure and confirmed dwell. No numeric PSA dwell is invented here. A failed bond, warping or extra balancing layer requires revised construction before final pieces are covered.

Check before continuing: H03/H06 acceptance and the actual stack are recorded.

Required wait: Supplier-prescribed acclimation and adhesive dwell, plus full coating cure before acceptance.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

39. Seal the prepared wood and cure the sealer

Parts: All wood faces and edges; compatible approved sealer/finish

Tools / setup: Tape, square, pencil, clamps and the tools named in the operation

Before you begin: The finish maker excludes floor applications. Obtain H06 acceptance of this enclosure floor’s abrasion/cleaning exposure before coating it. No immersion or animal-safety approval is inferred.

1. Sand clean dry wood from 120 through 220 grit, vacuum and wipe with a clean lint-free cloth. Keep glued mating faces and the specified bare metal seats protected.
2. For the selected Varathane Triple Thick clear satin, stir rather than shake and apply a uniform coat along the grain with a synthetic-bristle brush. Work at 60–90°F (16–32°C), below 85% relative humidity, with ventilation. Follow the accepted veneer-substrate preparation for surfaces receiving PSA.
3. The combined upper coating allowance is 101.502 ft² (9.43 m²), including veneer topcoat, trial and contingency. At the reference 50 ft² (4.65 m²) per quart, three quarts are needed; buy two two-quart packs. Extra coats require recalculation.

Check before continuing: All intended faces, edges, reveals, rabbets and concealed wood are uniformly treated without flooded fits.

Required wait: Seven-day reference full cure after the final/repair coat at 70°F (21°C), 50% relative humidity; adverse conditions take longer. Follow the accepted sealer/PSA sequence.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

40. Cut and label the seventy veneer blanks

Parts: One chosen 48 × 120-inch veneer sheet; V-parts

Tools / setup: Sharp knife, straightedge, cutting board, labels and current layout

1. Follow the VENEER-1 layout and exact coordinate table. Use one species throughout; maple, white oak and walnut are appearance choices, not three sets to purchase.
2. Cut rough blanks with the backing intact using a sharp knife, straightedge and sacrificial board. Keep the scheduled grain direction and trimming allowance. Label each V-ID and its parent wood part on the backing.
3. Separate face sheets, edge strips and opening reveals. The roof, floor underside, back, sides, front, door edges and reveals all receive their named pieces; no sheet bridges a removable joint.

Check before continuing: All seventy IDs are allocated with consistent grain and correct parent parts.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

41. Apply edge and reveal strips first

Parts: V-edge and V-reveal parts; approved cured substrate

Tools / setup: Veneer scraper, knife, straightedge, backing block and approved application supplies

1. Clean and prepare the accepted substrate as the veneer maker directs. Dry-position each piece before removing release paper. Apply the specified firm pressure with the recommended scraper; do not trap air.
2. Cover exposed plywood edges and opening reveals using separate strips. Do not bend a flat strip around a sharp corner. Support fibers with a block and flush-trim in shallow knife passes, then ease the edge lightly.
3. Keep strips separate at roof, door and other service seams. Door viewing reveals stop at the rabbet floor; leave glazing pockets, hinge-spacer seats, hasp seats and flush-head access circles clear.

Check before continuing: Edges and reveals are covered, seams remain free and no hardware bearing surface is raised.

Required wait: Observe the supplier’s confirmed adhesive dwell before loading or topcoating the bond.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

42. Apply matching face sheets and preserve access

Parts: All exterior V-face parts

Tools / setup: Scraper, knife, cutting guide, actual hardware templates and backing block

1. Apply each face sheet with the chosen grain axis. Face sheets overlap the ends of the already fitted edge strips; trim lightly to a clean butt line without cutting the substrate.
2. Cover the roof top and its edges, both sides, back, floor underside, front-frame members and door front faces. Keep every removable joint separate and the grain physically straight along each part.
3. Transfer and cut only the scheduled bare bearing footprints and screw-head access openings. Fit metal directly on its original datum, with the solid spacers under hinges. Do not hide service screws beneath an unbroken sheet.

Check before continuing: The entire exposed wooden exterior is uniform and all service access remains usable.

Required wait: Use the veneer supplier’s confirmed dwell before topcoating or assembling.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

43. Topcoat the veneer and record full cure

Parts: Approved veneer system and selected clear finish

Tools / setup: Tape, square, pencil, clamps and the tools named in the operation

Before you begin: Keep heat hotspots and permanent wet contact away from this indoor wood system.

1. After the accepted adhesive dwell, apply the compatible topcoat along the grain. Inspect corners, narrow reveals and masked bearing seats for drips or bridges.
2. For the selected one-coat Varathane formula, a further coat is only added when needed and counted in coverage. Sand with 220 grit before another coat; reference recoat time is two hours under the maker’s stated conditions.
3. Record final-coat time, temperature and relative humidity. Treat 48-hour light use, touch-dry and lack of odor as distinct from full cure. Recheck flatness and bond after curing.

Check before continuing: Finish is uniform, fully cured and free of joint bridges or delamination.

Required wait: At least seven days after the final or repaired coat at 70°F (21°C) and 50% relative humidity; extend for adverse conditions and follow current product instructions.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

44. Measure and cut the floating acrylic panes

Parts: AL/AR; actual cured rabbet pockets

Tools / setup: Caliper, straightedge, supported acrylic cutting setup, edge finishing tools and loose gauges

Before you begin: Acrylic is not an approved heat shield. Confirm received material, room-temperature sizing and cleaner compatibility.

1. At room temperature measure each fully finished rabbet pocket separately. Allow at least 1/16 in (1.59 mm) at every pane edge. Reference panes are 11 13/32 in (289.72 mm) × 10 29/64 in (265.51 mm) × 0.22 in (5.59 mm); actual pocket and acrylic expansion requirements control final size.
2. Keep protective film during cutting. Use a sharp acrylic-rated blade or suitable supplier cutting service, fully support the sheet and waste, and avoid heat buildup or force. Smooth every cut edge without rounding away required capture overlap.
3. No hole goes through the acrylic. Trial the pane in its pocket with loose 1/16 in (1.59 mm) gauges all around, then remove the gauges. A tight pane is removed and trimmed off the enclosure.

Check before continuing: Each pane fits without force with edge expansion room and no chipped edge.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

45. Drill and fit the removable glazing caps

Parts: QL/QR caps; 24 S6 screws; AL/AR

Tools / setup: Clamps, stopped drill, 9/64 in (3.57 mm) and 3/32 in (2.38 mm) trial bits, hand driver

Before you begin: Do not use screw pressure to flatten acrylic.

1. Remove the pane for drilling. Mark every cap screw line 3/16 in (4.76 mm) from the cap edge FARTHER from the viewing opening. Horizontal caps have screws 1/2 in (12.7 mm) from both ends and midway; vertical caps use 1 in (25.4 mm) from both ends and midway.
2. Clamp caps on wood, drill 9/64 in (3.57 mm) clearance through each cap and starting 3/32 in (2.38 mm) stopped pilots into pine. Check the exact stations and keep all 24 screw paths outside the acrylic pocket.
3. Refit the pane and 1/4 in (6.35 mm) caps. Seat S6 heads flush and stop the cap on wood, without bowing or squeezing the pane. Reference front and rear float is 0.012 in (0.3 mm) each after film; confirm real free retention.

Check before continuing: Every pane edge remains captured with at least 1/16 in (1.59 mm) expansion space and no screw contact.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

46. Reassemble the cured enclosure in supported order

Parts: Labeled shell, captures, roof, doors and hardware

Tools / setup: Tape, square, pencil, clamps and the tools named in the operation

Before you begin: Fully cure any disturbed finish again before completing assembly.

1. Reassemble floor cleats, sides/ledgers, back and already laminated front frame using their labeled holes. Stop if a screw strips or a joint will not close; do not compensate with a longer screw.
2. Refit mesh captures with outside flush heads and interior washer, locknut and closed cover. Verify full lands, open cells, measured tails and no cap bottoming. Assemble roof screens on the padded bench before lowering the roof. Refit door spacers, hinges, stops, glazing caps and hasps in their tested locations.
3. Measure finished door gaps with a 1/16 in (1.59 mm) gauge. Reference hinge/top/bottom gap is 0.1265 in (3.21 mm) and latch gap 0.09525 in (2.42 mm). At the maximum veneer stack they become 0.0955 in (2.43 mm) and 0.06425 in (1.63 mm); the latch margin is small. A failed fit requires revised hardware/frame review, not more unsupported edge trimming.

Check before continuing: All finished gaps, hardware seats and free pane retention pass the recorded checks.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

47. Check both doors and every closure

Parts: Completed doors, hinges, stops, independent hasps

Tools / setup: Tape, square, pencil, clamps and the tools named in the operation

Before you begin: A smooth digital animation is not physical or animal-containment testing.

1. Support each door and test opening through the intended range without rubbing veneer, catches or acrylic. Repeat roof-on removal and refit with the final cured surfaces.
2. To open one leaf, align its swivel with the slot, swing the fixed flap clear and move the door. To close, seat the door, return the flap and turn the swivel across the slot. Repeat while the other leaf remains latched.
3. Check every hinge/spacer seat, screw grip, stop, gap and reachable edge. A padlock is optional secondary security and is not included. Obtain animal-specific containment review for actual gaps and mesh.

Check before continuing: Both doors latch independently by hand and all service paths remain usable.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

48. Keep bedding and furnishings below the inlets

Parts: Finished enclosure; chosen dry substrate and furnishings

Tools / setup: Tape, square, pencil, clamps and the tools named in the operation

Before you begin: Do not add animals until the physical, thermal and containment acceptance records are complete.

1. Keep substrate at or below 2 in (50.8 mm) above the finished inside floor. The reference finished inlet bottom is 3.5275 in (89.6 mm) above that floor, leaving 1.5275 in (38.8 mm) above the fill. Maintain at least 1 1/2 in (38.1 mm) clear vertically below both inlets.
2. Keep furnishings at least 2 in (50.8 mm) away from inlet openings and leave roof exhaust clear. Use separate removable leakproof containers for any wet area; the shell has no liner or water-holding claim.
3. Record actual support load and measure the commissioned temperature/humidity setup with selected equipment and thermostat. Vent positions alone do not establish measured air exchange or a suitable gradient.

Check before continuing: Both inlets remain visible and clear at the actual fill depth; intended animal/equipment review is complete.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

49. Remove and service a pane on the bench

Parts: Removed supported leaf, caps and acrylic pane

Tools / setup: Padded bench, hand driver, clean soft cloth and compatible cleaner

1. Disconnect equipment, secure the animal elsewhere and empty the enclosure. Remove the supported door using the pictured upper-pin-then-lower-pin sequence and lay its front on clean padding.
2. Remove all twelve glazing-cap screws and the four labeled caps. Support the whole pane and lift it straight out toward the rear. Do not pry against a pane edge or drag it through a screw tip.
3. Clean with an acrylic-compatible product and soft cloth; avoid unapproved solvents or abrasives. Inspect the pocket and coating, fully cure any repair, then reinstall with the original edge clearances and free floating caps.

Check before continuing: The pane is unchipped, screws miss it and all caps seat on wood.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

50. Remove and clean roof or inlet screens

Parts: Empty enclosure; roof and side captures

Tools / setup: Helper, temporary clamps, 1/8 in (3.18 mm) hex key, two slim 3/8 in (9.53 mm) wrenches, padded bench and compatible cleaning supplies

Before you begin: Never service screens around an animal or allow equipment to hang from the removed roof.

1. Empty the enclosure and disconnect/remove all fixture equipment. Support the roof, remove its twenty-one case screws and lift the complete roof assembly to a padded bench before releasing roof-screen fasteners. Open and support both doors for side-screen access.
2. Support the capture and mesh with a helper or temporary clamp. Keep the exterior 1/8 in (3.18 mm) hex key available. Hold the interior locknut stationary with a slim 3/8 in (9.53 mm) wrench while removing its cover with another; then remove the locknut and washer. Move captures inward under control so sharp mesh edges cannot fall free.
3. Clean without bending wire or opening gaps. Inspect lands, countersinks, coating, steel seats and welds. Refit all forty screw/washer/locknut/cover sets and repeat the measured tail, two-thread, no-bottoming and snugness checks. Fully cure any finish repair before returning to service.

Check before continuing: All screens seat flat, sharp ends stay concealed, covers are secure and the finished doors/roof operate freely.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D

51. Inspect after cleaning and before reuse

Parts: Complete enclosure and acceptance record

Tools / setup: Tape, square, pencil, clamps and the tools named in the operation

1. Empty dry debris into containers and wipe spills promptly. Never tip a loaded enclosure or flood the wooden floor. Keep ventilation open while the interior dries.
2. Check coating, veneer bond, acrylic edges, hardware seats, screw grip, mesh capture and all closures. Record defects and repairs; cure each coating or adhesive repair for its full required time.
3. Repeat affected fit, removal, load, thermal and containment checks after any change. Research, calculations, digital checks, prototype, physical tests, qualified review and publication stay separate statuses.

Check before continuing: All required records are complete for the actual configuration; no unfinished repair is hidden.

Exact workshop reference · Show this stage in 3D