24 × 18 × 18 inches

OP01 · Choose the finish and record the received stock

Parts: P01–P05 · F01 · D01

Before you begin: Do not begin the optional veneer work until its bond, finish, dwell and panel-balance questions have been resolved.

1. This is an indoor, moderately humid enclosure shell. It has no immersion, outdoor, species, strength or escape approval. Set it on a flat support under the entire 24 × 18-inch (610 × 457 mm) floor. Do not support only its corners.
2. Choose plain finished plywood or the conditional face-veneer option before drilling. Record actual sheet thickness, square-stock dimensions and mesh crossing thickness. The drawings use 0.703-inch (17.86 mm) plywood; 3/4 inch is its shop label, not a measured thickness.
3. Reject warped, split, delaminated or short stock. For thickness changes, use the fitting method below and revise the model record before claiming an as-built match.

Check before continuing: Receiving fields stay blank until measured. Complete RH01–RH04 before their irreversible operations.

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OP02 · Test the actual lift-off hinge first

Parts: H01 · H02 · matching plywood offcuts

Before you begin: Stop if the exact hinge/screw combination fails. No bending leaves or enlarging metal holes.

1. Use two identical right-hand Sugatsune NH-40R/SS hinges, bought individually. Use eight Quickscrews 11325 #5 × 5/8-inch (15.9 mm) flat-head screws. The separated-leaf supplier picture is not an installed template.
2. Clamp two offcuts with a 1/16-inch (1.59 mm) bare joint. Seat both leaves on the same front plane, barrel outward: lower pin leaf on the fixed LEFT piece; upper socket leaf on the RIGHT door piece. Pins point up. If veneered, trial the same cured face stack on both pieces.
3. Transfer the received holes; measure the screw root and test a stopped pilot. Hand-seat heads without enlarging the hinge holes. Swing from flat through 90 degrees, lift off and refit. Measure pin offset and release stroke.

Check before continuing: Heads seat, tips stay buried, leaves do not distort and the joint clears. Actual lift stroke must fit the reserved 1 3/4 inches (44.5 mm).

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OP03 · Test the swivel latch on offcuts

Parts: H04 · H05 · matching plywood offcuts

Before you begin: Do not use the longer supplied screws. The utility latch has no claimed security or animal-containment rating.

1. Trial National Hardware N305-979 across the same joint and face stack. Hasp mounting leaf belongs on the fixed RIGHT side; the square swivel plate belongs on the door, to its left.
2. Hold both entire bases over solid wood. Align the tab with the slot, close the flap, then turn the tab across the slot. Open the flap fully clear before moving the door.
3. Test the seven Everbilt H05 #10 × 5/8-inch (15.9 mm) flat-head screws: three in the hasp, four in the swivel plate. Transfer holes from the hardware and use the successful root-size pilot/depth-stop trial.

Check before continuing: Seated tips leave at least 1/16 inch (1.59 mm) of wood at the rear. Both latch positions work freely.

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OP04 · Lay out and label the plywood blanks

Parts: P01–P05 · F01 · D01

1. Label every panel ID, FRONT, TOP and inside face before separating it from the sheet. Use the illustrated 48 × 96-inch (1219 × 2438 mm) allocation: 1/4-inch (6.4 mm) edge trim and 1/8-inch (3.2 mm) saw kerf. Kerf means the strip lost to the blade.
2. Cut the rough blanks listed in the cut reference; keep the marked grain direction. Trim floor P01 and roof P02 to 24 × 18 inches (610 × 457 mm). Leave other mating dimensions oversize until scribed.
3. Support both the saved part and waste. Use a guided saw, square and eye/hearing/dust protection. Save the full-size door-trial blank and smaller offcuts. Ease splinters; keep mating edges flat.

Check before continuing: Count seven production panels and one optional trial-door blank. No part relies on the fragile window waste.

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OP05 · Use one measuring strip for the case height

Parts: P01 · P02 · P03 · P04 · P05

1. A story stick is a scrap strip carrying physical marks instead of separately rounded measurements. Mark the 18-inch (457 mm) outside height. Lay actual floor and roof offcuts against it; mark the space between their inside faces.
2. Transfer that shared height to both side panels. Their finished depth is 18 inches (457 mm). Keep them mirrored: the FRONT labels must meet the same front plane.
3. Stand both sides on the floor with outer faces flush to the floor edges. Scribe the back between their actual inside faces. Scribing means transferring the mating edges directly to the oversize blank. Trim gradually; the back rear face finishes flush with the floor rear edge.

Check before continuing: The dry case sits flat, faces meet without force and both diagonal measurements match. Do not correct a short part by bending the case.

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OP06 · Cut both low side inlets

Parts: P03 · P04

Before you begin: Deeper substrate needs a revised inlet and front arrangement. A 1/4-inch (6.35 mm) mesh opening is unsuitable for some animals and feeders.

1. On each side, mark the inlet 6 inches (152 mm) behind FRONT and 3 inches (76 mm) above the panel bottom, which sits on the inside floor. Mark a 6 × 1 1/2-inch (152 × 38 mm) opening.
2. Drill a jigsaw entry hole wholly within the waste. Support the panel and waste, cut to the marks and smooth all four edges. Keep the surrounding screen-retaining land intact.

Check before continuing: Both panels are mirrored correctly. A proposed 1-inch (25 mm) shallow fill leaves 2 inches (51 mm) below these openings.

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OP07 · Prepare the stopped drill setup

Parts: L06 · plywood and solid-stock offcuts

Before you begin: Never extend the full clearance diameter into the receiver or use screws to pull misaligned panels into position.

1. A clearance hole lets the first part slide along the screw; a pilot hole guides the threads in the receiving wood. For L06 #8 × 1 1/4-inch (31.8 mm) screws, drill 11/64-inch (4.37 mm) clearance through the first plywood only.
2. Clamp the parts aligned before marking the receiver. Pilot to the received screw root diameter and a depth proven on matching offcuts. The product does not publish that root diameter; reference bores in the model are not drilling prescriptions.
3. Countersink only enough for the selected flat head to sit flush. Keep drill and driver square. A countersink is a shallow cone for the screw head. Use a physical depth stop and inspect the trial tip.

Check before continuing: The first board pulls tight, the receiver does not split and the screw tip remains inside the wood.

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OP08 · Fit the solid side supports

Parts: C1/C2 · C7/C8 · P03/P04

1. Cleats are solid wood strips that receive face-driven screws. Use the purchased 1 1/2-inch (38 mm) square stock. C1/C2 sit on the floor top, against their sides, starting 1 1/2 inches (38 mm) behind FRONT; trim their rear ends to the fitted back inside face.
2. C7/C8 sit on those lower cleats, in the rear corners. Their backs meet the back panel inside face; their tops finish flush with the side tops beneath the roof.
3. Lay each side flat for drilling. Lower-cleat screws are 3 1/2, 9 1/2 and 16 inches (89, 241, 406 mm) from FRONT, 3/4 inch (19 mm) above panel bottom. Upright screws are 5 and 13 inches (127 and 330 mm) above panel bottom, on its transferred centerline. Use 10 L06 screws total.

Check before continuing: Transfer the upright centerline to the outside face using the top/bottom edge marks. All tips stay buried; inlets remain clear.

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OP09 · Dry-fit the back and floor supports

Parts: P01 · P03/P04 · P05 · C5/C6

1. Keep the open front clamped and supported on a flat bench. Place C5 across the rear on the floor, between the lower side cleats. Place C6 between the rear uprights with its top flush beneath the roof. Scribe both to their actual span.
2. Through the back, screw into C5 and C6 at the panel centerline and 7 inches (178 mm) either side. Their rows are 3/4 inch (19 mm) from the respective bottom/top edge. Back-to-upright screws are 3/4 inch (19 mm) from each side edge, 3 and 11 inches (76 and 279 mm) above the back bottom.
3. For the floor: transfer actual cleat centerlines onto the underside before turning. Two screws per side are 5 and 14 inches (127 and 356 mm) from FRONT; three into C5 are centered and 7 inches (178 mm) either side. Use 17 L06 screws total.

Check before continuing: Brace before turning; retain FRONT and LEFT labels. Match diagonals without forcing. This is still an incomplete supported shell.

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OP10 · Cut the screen retainers and door stops

Parts: L02 pine · L13 poplar

Before you begin: Use a guarded thin-rip jig and push blocks, or have a competent supplier cut narrow strips. Never hand-hold them beside a blade.

1. Use the stock-board layouts and cut list. Rip 1-inch (25.4 mm) wide, 3/4-inch (19 mm) thick pine screen battens. Side battens are four × 8 inches and four × 1 1/2 inches (203 and 38 mm). Roof battens are two × 22 inches and two × 10 inches (559 and 254 mm).
2. Rip the separate stops to 1/2-inch (12.7 mm) width × 3/4-inch (19 mm) depth. Left and RIGHT stops are both continuous; fit the top/bottom stops between them. Do not leave a right-hand bay.
3. For glazing, rip separate quarter-inch (6.35 mm) poplar blanks into 1-inch (25.4 mm) caps and 7/16-inch (11.11 mm) spacers. Their final lengths follow the door window.

Check before continuing: Use the separate board allocations: a 1-inch strip and 1/2-inch strip plus saw kerf cannot both come from one 1 1/2-inch width.

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OP11 · Fit the two side screens

Parts: MSL/MSR · eight side battens

Before you begin: If a wire blocks a marked bore, snip only that wire inside the covered overlap, flatten its ends and remove fragments. Never drive against a wire or shift the wood hole.

1. Cut two 7 1/2 × 3-inch (191 × 76 mm) screens. Center each inside its inlet for 3/4-inch (19 mm) overlap all around. Wear gloves and eye protection; collect every wire fragment.
2. Long battens span 5–13 inches (127–330 mm) behind FRONT, at 2–3 and 4 1/2–5 1/2 inches (51–76 and 114–140 mm) above panel bottom. End battens fill the gaps at 5–6 and 12–13 inches (127–152 and 305–330 mm) from FRONT.
3. Use 16 L06 screws outside-to-inside: long rows at 5 1/2, 9, 12 1/2 inches (140, 229, 318 mm) from FRONT and 2 1/2 or 5 inches (64 or 127 mm) above bottom. End screws are at 5 1/2 and 12 1/2 inches (140 and 318 mm), height 3 3/4 inches (95 mm).

Check before continuing: Every cut edge is under a batten. A wire crossing must measure at most 1/16 inch (1.59 mm); seat battens directly on mesh, without spacers.

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OP12 · Cut the roof opening and mesh

Parts: P02 · MR · RB1–RB4

1. Mark a 20 × 10-inch (508 × 254 mm) opening, starting 2 inches (51 mm) from LEFT and 4 inches (102 mm) from FRONT. Cut with the same backed entry-hole and supported-waste method.
2. Cut roof mesh MR to 21 1/2 × 11 1/2 inches (546 × 292 mm), giving 3/4-inch (19 mm) overlap. Position RB1/RB2 from 1–23 inches (25–584 mm) across the roof, at 3–4 and 14–15 inches (76–102 and 356–381 mm) from FRONT.
3. RB3/RB4 fit between them at 1–2 and 22–23 inches (25–51 and 559–584 mm) from LEFT. Work with the detached roof underside facing you; preserve its datum labels.

Check before continuing: All four mesh edges will be captured. Do not install the roof on the case yet.

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OP13 · Make the steel support seats

Parts: LB1/LB2 · RB1/RB2

Before you begin: These strips define a lamp-support arrangement, not a proven roof load or heat rating.

1. Cut two 12 × 1 × 1/8-inch (305 × 25.4 × 3.18 mm) steel flats. Clamp securely for metal cutting/drilling; deburr every edge and hole, remove oil and wipe dry.
2. Their centerlines are 4 3/4 and 9 1/4 inches (121 and 235 mm) from LEFT, spanning 3–15 inches (76–381 mm) behind FRONT. Transfer their ends to the roof-facing sides of RB1/RB2.
3. Make four 1-inch-wide (25.4 mm) seats, nominally 1/8 inch (3.18 mm) deep. Use repeated saw kerfs and a sharp chisel on clamped battens; approach final depth gradually. Fit the actual steel thickness so its top is flush beneath the mesh.

Check before continuing: Both steel strips bear on full seats without rocking. The opposite roof area stays open for shade/ventilation.

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OP14 · Drill and fasten the detached roof

Parts: P02 · MR · RB1–RB4 · four bolts

1. Clamp the roof stack and drill four aligned 17/64-inch (6.75 mm) holes at x = 4 3/4 or 9 1/4 inches (121 or 235 mm), y = 3 1/2 or 14 1/2 inches (89 or 368 mm). Clear obstructing wire only under covered overlap.
2. Each bolt stack downward is: 1/4-20 × 2-inch (50.8 mm) machine screw head, flat washer, roof, mesh, flush-seated steel, batten, flat washer, Keps nut. Its captive toothed washer bears on the lower flat washer. Tighten by hand without crushing wood.
3. Use twenty L06 retaining screws at the diagram stations: eight in each long batten, two in each end batten. Keep the four bolts distinct from these screws and the six later roof-to-case screws.

Check before continuing: All edges are covered, steel is flush and at least two full threads show beyond every seated nut. Verify actual stack before machining all parts.

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OP15 · Scribe and cut the continuous surround

Parts: F01

1. After successful hardware trials, scribe the oversize F01 blank between the actual floor, side and roof faces. Keep the outside front face flush with the case front.
2. Mark a continuous 1 1/2-inch (38.1 mm) border on all four sides. Drill the entry hole in waste, back the work and cut its opening. Keep every border intact; no half-laps or routed rebate are required.
3. Fit four square-stock receivers behind it: FCB and FCT across bottom/top, FCL and continuous FCR at left/right. Fit each against the actual mating parts. Receivers must stay clear of inlets and roof opening.

Check before continuing: The ring lies flat and both diagonals match. Never force it square with screws.

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OP16 · Fit the separate plywood door ring

Parts: D01

1. Trim the separate oversize door blank to the actual surround opening using equal 1/16-inch (1.59 mm) bare shims on all four edges. Do not use the surround waste as the door.
2. Mark its window: 1 1/2-inch (38.1 mm) borders at LEFT, TOP and BOTTOM; 2 1/2 inches (63.5 mm) at the RIGHT latch border. Cut and smooth the window with the same supported method.
3. Keep the opening and door edges free of veneer and edge banding. Sand splinters without rounding the fitting faces. The front veneer, if selected, ends flush at those edges.

Check before continuing: The door fits flat without force. Bare perimeter gap is 1/16 inch (1.59 mm), later accepted at 1/32–1/16 inch (0.79–1.59 mm) after cure.

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OP17 · Drill the front connections while accessible

Parts: F01 · FCB/FCT/FCL/FCR

1. Clamp the dry surround to its four receivers. Use the stopped L06 setup; the 11/64-inch (4.37 mm) bore passes through the first plywood only. All heights here are above the outside FLOOR BOTTOM.
2. Left front-to-receiver and left side-to-receiver: three each at 4 1/2, 9, 14 1/2 inches (114, 229, 368 mm). Right: four each at 4 1/2, 6, 12, 14 1/2 inches (114, 152, 305, 368 mm). Use each receiver centerline; side bores are 3/4 inch (19 mm) behind the surround rear face.
3. Top/bottom front rows, floor-to-front and roof-to-front each have three at x = 6, 12, 18 inches (152, 305, 457 mm). Front rows are centered in receiver height; floor/roof rows are 3/4 inch (19 mm) behind the surround rear face.

Check before continuing: Count 26 front/case stations including three front roof screws. Leave the roof removable. The separate rear roof row has three more screws.

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OP18 · Fit the continuous closure stops

Parts: DSL/DSR · DSB/DST

1. Fit both vertical stops the full opening height; fit horizontal stops between them. Overlap the door edges with their 1/2-inch (12.7 mm) width. Set bare front faces 1/32 inch (0.79 mm) behind the bare door rear face.
2. Use fourteen L06 screws through the stop WIDTH into the receiver. Left stations: heights 4, 8, 12, 14 inches (102, 203, 305, 356 mm). Right: 4, 5 1/2, 12 1/2, 14 inches (102, 140, 318, 356 mm). Top/bottom: x = 5, 11, 17 inches (127, 279, 432 mm). Center in the 3/4-inch (19 mm) stop depth.
3. Clearance-drill only the stop. Top screws point up, bottom down, left left and right right. Work through the open front or open roof before glazing.

Check before continuing: The offset stations avoid other screws. Finished stops must not preload the door; set them back if the actual cured coating requires it.

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OP19 · Fit the glazing pocket and pane

Parts: D01 · G01 · GS/GC strips

Before you begin: Use an acrylic-rated blade and full support; keep protective film for cutting, deburr and remove fragments. This clearance is not a certified thermal range.

1. The cap outside rectangle extends 1 inch (25.4 mm) beyond each window edge. Top/bottom caps run full length; sides fit between. Spacers share that outside rectangle; their full-length top/bottom strips are 7/16 inch (11.11 mm) wide.
2. Start the acrylic at window width plus 1 inch and window height plus 1 inch (25.4 mm added each way). Fit to the FINISHED pocket, leaving at least 1/16 inch (1.59 mm) on every edge and 1/64 inch (0.40 mm) through its thickness.
3. Nominal 0.22-inch (5.59 mm) acrylic inside 1/4-inch (6.35 mm) spacers leaves 0.030 inch (0.76 mm) before finish. Measure actual stack; if spacers need more thickness, recheck cap screws and stop clearance.

Check before continuing: The pane has 1/2-inch (12.7 mm) nominal window overlap. It stays undrilled, unglued and free to move.

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OP20 · Drill the removable glazing retainers

Parts: GCB/GCT/GCL/GCR · GS strips · H03

Before you begin: Never substitute the longer 1 1/4-inch shell screws: they can pierce the door.

1. Keep the cap outside edges 1/2 inch (12.7 mm) from LEFT/TOP/BOTTOM door edges and 1 1/2 inches (38.1 mm) from the RIGHT edge. Center the screw line on the spacer width, outside the pane perimeter.
2. Four screws per top/bottom cap: 1 inch (25.4 mm) from each cap end plus x = 8 and 14 inches (203 and 356 mm) from the shut-door shell LEFT datum. Three per side: heights 5, 9 and 13 inches (127, 229, 330 mm) from outside FLOOR BOTTOM. Transfer datums to the removed door.
3. Remove the pane. Drill 11/64-inch (4.37 mm) clearance through cap and spacer only; depth-stop pilot D01. Use fourteen H03 #8 × 1-inch (25.4 mm) PAN screws; no countersink.

Check before continuing: The nominal 1/2-inch (12.7 mm) stack leaves 1/2-inch engagement and 0.203-inch (5.16 mm) rear cover. Verify on actual offcuts.

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OP21 · Transfer both hinges to the supported door

Parts: H01 · H02 · F01 · D01

1. Support D01 in its bare shims. Put assembled hinge bottoms 3 1/2 and 12 1/2 inches (89 and 318 mm) above outside FLOOR BOTTOM. Align both pin centerlines over the left joint with a straightedge.
2. Seat both received hinges flat, fixed pins on the left surround and sockets on the door. Transfer the four holes from each; use the tested face pilots and eight H02 screws. Hand-tighten without twisting leaves.
3. For veneer, perform final hole transfer only after the equal face stack is applied to BOTH seating faces. The nominal 0.0305-inch (0.775 mm) added stack moves the hardware outward; its 0.046-inch (1.17 mm) design maximum reduces hinge screw engagement to about 0.520 inch (13.2 mm).

Check before continuing: Cycle to 90 degrees and support/lift/refit before glazing. Actual hardware fit remains the governing checkpoint, including pin offset.

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OP22 · Transfer the latch in both working positions

Parts: H04 · H05 · F01 · D01

1. Nominal latch center is 9 inches (229 mm) above outside FLOOR BOTTOM, about 20 13/16 inches (529 mm) from LEFT. This is a placement reference; the actual received hole pattern controls.
2. Support the shut door in its gaps. Keep the hasp base fully on fixed RIGHT surround and square swivel base fully on the wide door border. Trial open and secured states before marking seven holes.
3. Use the offcut-tested stopped pilots and H05 screws, three plus four. Keep front pilots clear of rear glazing screws. At the maximum veneer face stack, nominal latch engagement is 0.509 inch (12.9 mm); verify actual seated tips and heads.

Check before continuing: Flap clears the aligned tab, then stays captured after a quarter turn. At least 1/16 inch (1.59 mm) rear wood cover remains.

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OP23 · Complete the veneer trial before production

Parts: V01 · full-size trial D01

Before you begin: Do not substitute a guessed 24-hour bond wait or rely on a small coupon to prove panel balance. If this fails, keep the plain-plywood configuration.

1. Optional: Oakwood flat-cut maple, standard quality, 48 × 96-inch (1219 × 2438 mm), factory 3M pressure-sensitive adhesive (PSA), SKU MapleFC4x8PSA-I. It is special order and non-returnable: resolve application questions before buying. Supplier total thickness is about 0.023–0.026 inch (0.58–0.66 mm); measure the delivered veneer/backer/adhesive together.
2. Get supplier guidance for this one-sided plywood panel, Varathane-presealed bond face, topcoat and expected heat/humidity. Confirm the required bond dwell before topcoating. Apply the full sequence to the full-size spare door ring and smaller hardware coupons.
3. Check flatness against a straightedge and the actual opening before and after finishing/cure, then repeat hinge, latch and clearance checks. Record actual conditions and time.

Check before continuing: Proceed only if the full-size door stays flat and preserves all gaps; veneer/backer/adhesive must be at most 0.040 inch (1.02 mm).

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OP24 · Preseal the five outward veneer faces

Parts: P03/P04/P05 · F01 · D01

Before you begin: Do not apply veneer to uncured finish. Do not hide service screw heads.

1. Optional, after the trial succeeds: dismantle the dry-fitted parts and label every position. Mask all future bare-wood glue contacts on inside faces. Veneer only outside side/back faces and matching front surround/door faces; leave roof, floor underside, interior, edges and stops unveneered.
2. Prepare and preseal only the intended veneer bond faces with the trial-approved Varathane system. Keep glue contacts bare. Follow the same one-coat, preparation and temperature rules in the finishing steps.
3. After full cure, scuff the sealed bond faces with 120-grit as directed by the PSA guide, remove dust and use the trial-approved cleaning method. The surface must be sound, smooth and dry.

Check before continuing: No cured finish, adhesive or veneer crosses a required bare glue contact or removable joint.

Required wait: Varathane preseal: full 7-day cure at 70°F / 50% RH (21°C); adverse conditions require longer. Supplier veneer dwell remains a separate requirement.

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OP25 · Apply and trim the optional face veneer

Parts: V-P03/V-P04/V-P05/V-F01/V-D01

Before you begin: Do not add veneer to the roof or around the lamp area. No heat/moisture exposure rating has been established.

1. Acclimate the veneer with the wood under the supplier’s installation conditions; Oakwood advises 48–72 hours. Cut oversize pieces from the layout, preserving vertical show-face grain. Peel back a small portion of release liner, align the face, then withdraw the liner progressively.
2. Press with a stiff-bladed veneer scraper, working firmly from center outward along the grain over the entire face. Use the supplier method and successful trial; do not substitute an unverified roller or contact cement.
3. Support the panel for trimming. Use a sharp knife, several light cross-grain scores and a straightedge; keep hands clear. Trim flush around outer edges, window/inlets and each separate panel. Lightly ease veneer edges. Reopen all existing clearance holes and countersinks while accessible.

Check before continuing: No edge wrap, bridged joint, bubble, loose edge or buried screw head. Equal door/surround seating stacks and original 1/16-inch bare gaps remain.

Required wait: Honor supplier-confirmed bond dwell before topcoat; record it.

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OP26 · Glue the bare case joints and keep it square

Parts: Shell panels · solid cleats · front receivers

Before you begin: Titebond III is not for continuous submersion or certified load-bearing use. Follow the received label for temperature, clamp and drying time.

1. Complete the last dry-fit first. Remove dust and masking from bare wood-to-wood contacts. Use Titebond III on the case/cleat/surround joints according to its current label; retain every specified mechanical fastener.
2. At 70°F (21°C), 50% RH, Titebond III lists 8–10 minutes open time and 20–25 minutes total assembly time. Keep glue, air and wood above the received label minimum (published 45°F / 7°C). Work in manageable subassemblies: side cleats, back/floor shell, then front surround/receivers. Recheck diagonals while clamped.
3. Keep the removable roof, screen battens, stops and glazing retainers unglued. Clean squeeze-out before it cures, without disturbing the fit. Do not use glue as a structural capacity claim.

Check before continuing: The case stays square and joint faces meet fully. Retain bench support until the glue has dried sufficiently.

Required wait: Manufacturer guidance: clamp unstressed joints 30–60 minutes; stressed joints 24 hours; do not stress joints for at least 24 hours. Longer if conditions require.

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OP27 · Prepare every exposed wood face for finishing

Parts: Case · roof · door · loose retainers/stops

1. After glue drying, remove dry-fit screens, battens, stops, acrylic, hinges and latch. Label their locations. Keep metal, mesh and glazing clean. Leave permanently buried glue contacts bare.
2. Sand clean, dry wood from 120 through 220 grit. Vacuum and wipe with a clean lint-free cloth. Include opening edges, holes, loose batten faces, spacers, caps and stops. For the optional veneer, use the successful trial preparation without sanding through its thin face.
3. Coat accessible shell faces, edges and all loose wooden pieces. Keep remove/refit joints separate; finish must not glue parts together. Repair sharp fibres or damaged veneer before coating.

Check before continuing: All wood that can see the enclosure environment is accessible and prepared. No acrylic or hardware remains in the finish area.

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OP28 · Apply the specified one-coat finish

Parts: L14 Varathane Triple Thick 284473

Before you begin: Do not apply a generic three- or four-coat schedule to this one-coat formula. Manufacturer excludes exterior surfaces/floors; no animal-safety certification is claimed.

1. Use one uniform coat of the selected clear satin formula. Stir; do not shake. Brush with the grain using a quality synthetic-bristle brush in adequate ventilation.
2. Apply at 60–90°F (16–32°C) and below 85% relative humidity (RH: moisture in the air compared with saturation). Clean tools with soap and water. Record application date, temperature and RH.
3. A nominal coat is 0.003 inch (0.076 mm) dry per face. Opposing coats reduce a gap by about 0.006 inch (0.152 mm); actual film varies. The budget includes one final coat and optional outward-face preseal within the two-quart pack. Additional coats need another coverage calculation.

Check before continuing: No runs obstruct fits, pools fill seats or bare exposed wood remains.

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OP29 · Wait for full cure before refitting

Parts: All coated pieces

1. Keep parts ventilated and protected while curing. Start the clock from the LAST applied or repaired coat. Full cure is 7 days at 70°F (21°C), 50% RH and adequate ventilation; cooler or adverse conditions require longer under manufacturer guidance.
2. Two hours to recoat and 48 hours to light use are not full cure. Touch-dry feel and absence of odor do not prove readiness.
3. If an extra coat is needed, sand with 220 grit first, add its area to the finish calculation and restart cure. Keep a dated record for the optional preseal, final coat and any repair separately.

Check before continuing: The full cure requirement has elapsed under recorded conditions. Receiving and physical-test records are still distinct.

Required wait: Wait at least the specified 7-day full cure; no assembly shortcut through this checkpoint.

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OP30 · Refit screens, stops and the floating pane

Parts: MSL/MSR/MR · retainers · G01 · H03

Before you begin: If fitting damages a coating, repair it and repeat the full cure before use.

1. Refit labeled screens and screen battens after full cure. Recheck every wire edge and the four roof bolt stacks. Refit stops without pressing on the door; cured pieces must seat without force.
2. Seat the glazing spacers and pane on the rear of D01; fit caps using the fourteen short PAN screws. Snug evenly by hand without bowing caps or pinching acrylic.
3. Measure at least 1/16 inch (1.59 mm) at each pane edge and 1/64 inch (0.40 mm) thickness freedom. Keep positive window overlap. The pane must be retained without being rigidly clamped or able to rattle out.

Check before continuing: Every tip remains buried; the pane is undrilled and caps remain removable.

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OP31 · Refit and cycle the finished door

Parts: Door · hinges · swivel hasp

Before you begin: If the received hinge cannot clear within the stated gap, stop for a revised detail. Do not bend leaves or enlarge holes.

1. Refit the hinges and latch with their original short screws. Measure the entire finished door perimeter: acceptable running gaps are 1/32–1/16 inch (0.79–1.59 mm). Check the middle of each edge as well as corners.
2. Turn the swivel tab into line, swing the flap clear, then open the supported door to 90 degrees. Close it, lower the flap and turn the tab across the slot. An optional padlock may use the eye; no key is required for normal operation.
3. Check for rubbing at small opening angles, cap/stop contact, hardware distortion and accidental tab rotation. Remove only minor high spots; repair and fully cure disturbed finish. Do not enlarge gaps to conceal veneer warping.

Check before continuing: Flap stays captured when secured; shut door cannot lift off. No contact with glazing screws or exposed tips.

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OP32 · Test door removal and safe refitting

Parts: Lift-off door assembly

Before you begin: No removal with animals inside. Never move the enclosure by its door, roof or mesh; support beneath its floor.

1. With the enclosure EMPTY, release the latch and swing its flap clear. Support the door with both hands and open to 90 degrees.
2. Reserve 21 inches (533 mm) clear in front and 1 3/4 inches (44.5 mm) upward. Lift both sockets together until they clear their pins; confirm actual release stroke within that reserved space before adding glazing or relying on the route.
3. Set the door on a padded bench. For refitting, lower both sockets onto their pins together; confirm full seating before releasing its weight. At 90 degrees the lifted door is in front of the roof. The small closed top gap must prevent lift-off when shut.

Check before continuing: Removal/refit causes no collision, finish damage, tipping or dropped-door risk. Record the measured release stroke.

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OP33 · Attach and test the removable roof

Parts: P02 · six case-attachment screws

Before you begin: Repeated wood-screw service can wear pilots. If threads loosen, stop for an assessed repair; do not substitute longer screws.

1. After the case joints are cured, lower the completed roof onto intact side/back/front bearing faces. Use three front L06 screws at x = 6, 12, 18 inches (152, 305, 457 mm), on the front receiver centerline.
2. Use three rear L06 screws at x = 5, 12, 19 inches (127, 305, 483 mm), transferring the actual C6 centerline from BACK. Keep these six distinct from the twenty retaining screws and four bolts.
3. Remove and restore the roof once to prove access. No lamp or loose equipment may remain on it during service. Do not glue this joint.

Check before continuing: Roof seats flat without force, screws stay buried and all six can be reached and removed.

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OP34 · Commission and maintain the empty shell

Parts: Complete shell · selected equipment

Before you begin: Keep bedding and furnishings below openings. Do not infer animal suitability from dimensions or the model.

1. Check seated steel, captured wire, tight bolts and two full threads beyond each nut. Trial the COLD fixture centered 7 inches from LEFT and 9 inches from FRONT (178 and 229 mm). Proposed envelope: at most 6-inch overall diameter, 5 1/2–6-inch flat rim (140–152 mm), at most 2 lb (0.91 kg) including bulb; rim bears over both strips. This is not a tested load rating.
2. Choose equipment for the intended animal separately. Mini Sun Dome 27004 has a 100 W electrical maximum, not a recommended bulb for this shell. Follow fixture clearances, keep heat and cords away from wood, retain shade at the right, use suitable thermostatic control and measure the complete environment. Physical strength, stability, thermal, moisture, ventilation and escape tests remain unperformed.
3. During maintenance, remove the lamp before roof work; inspect for loosening, sagging, corrosion, veneer lifting, coating damage and heat damage. Correct faults before reuse. Remove the door for bench glazing service rather than reaching around sharp wire or an unsupported panel.

Check before continuing: Qualified review and the intended environment’s measured commissioning checks are recorded separately from digital drawings.

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